A study of local weather
usually requires observations of some of the following:
temperature, humidity, rainfall, wind, present weather,
cloud, visibility and pressure. The Met Office has
very sophisticated equipment and trained staff to make
observations, but the student or enthusiast can take
perfectly adequate measurements from inexpensive or
home-made equipment.
More important than the right equipment and the
right site is the right attitude. Observations need
to be taken regularly, often for many months, if
the results are to be of any use. This requires dedication
by those involved as they will be required to take
careful, regular readings in all sorts of weather.
Many books and articles on meteorology give excellent
advice on setting up an observing station using standard
equipment. The purpose of this leaflet is to show how
observations can be made at home or school using only
very simple and inexpensive equipment.
| Siting,
observing procedure and recording |
Whatever instruments are used, ideally they should
be sited over grass and have good exposure (i.e. they
should be sited away from buildings, fences, trees
and other obstacles). In reality it is usually possible
to find a site where the exposure is reasonable even
though it may not be ideal.
- Thermometers should be placed in the shade.
Ideally, they should be in a white slatted
box (thermometer screen) with the door facing
north. If this is not available they could
be hung in a permanently shaded area on a
wall or fence. Care should be taken, since
even a north-facing aspect will get sunshine
in summer. There should be a large area of
shading around the thermometer because bricks
or wood can retain heat, which would spoil
the readings if there is little shading.
- Rain gauges should be away from walls, fences,
bushes, etc. as these affect the amount of
rain caught in the rain gauge.
- Wind instruments should be well clear of
walls, fences and houses as these cause eddies
which would give unrepresentative readings
of wind speed and direction.
Official meteorological observations are
made every hour. Observations from associated
stations are usually made less frequently
- every three or every six hours during the
daytime only. However, making an observation
just once a day, say at 9 a.m. GMT (referred
to by meteorologists as 0900 GMT as a 24-hour
clock is used), can be a useful exercise
in taking measurements and provides useful
and interesting information over a period
of time.
If 0900 GMT is not possible, another time
can be chosen, but it is important that observations
are made at the same time each day. Recordings
can be entered in a suitably ruled exercise
book, or into a tabular computer file. A column
for 'remarks' should be included. Plotting
daily temperature and pressure readings on
a graph can produce interesting results over
a period of time. Daily, weekly, monthly and
annual totals of rainfall are also of great
interest. |
|
Meteorologists usually measure temperature in degrees
Celsius, though degrees Fahrenheit are still used in
a few places.

Fig 4: A
liquid-in-glass thermometer
© Crown |
Table for converting temperatures between
Celsius and Fahrenheit
C |
F |
|
C |
F |
|
C |
F |
|
C |
F |
35 |
95 |
25 |
77 |
15 |
59 |
5 |
41 |
34 |
93 |
24 |
75 |
14 |
57 |
4 |
39 |
33 |
91 |
23 |
73 |
13 |
55 |
3 |
37 |
32 |
90 |
22 |
72 |
12 |
54 |
2 |
36 |
31 |
88 |
21 |
70 |
11 |
52 |
1 |
34 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
30 |
86 |
20 |
68 |
10 |
50 |
0 |
32 |
29 |
84 |
19 |
66 |
9 |
48 |
-1 |
30 |
28 |
82 |
18 |
64 |
8 |
46 |
-2 |
28 |
27 |
81 |
17 |
63 |
7 |
45 |
-3 |
27 |
26 |
79 |
16 |
61 |
6 |
43 |
-4 |
25 |
|
Table 1: Converting
temperatures between Celsius and Fahrenheit
There are two basic types of thermometer which
are readily available.
- The liquid-in-glass
thermometer
(Fig
4, left)
depends upon
the fact
that a liquid
expands by
an amount
proportionate
with the
temperature.
Consequently,
as the temperature
increases,
the liquid
(usually
alcohol or
mercury)
in the bulb
of the thermometer
expands and
pushes a
column of
liquid up
a capillary
tube. There
is a scale
marked on
the side
of the capillary
tube and
the temperature
is read from
the position
of the end
of the liquid
column. Temperature
measurements
are read
directly
from this
type of thermometer.
- The other type of thermometer (Fig
5) is based on a bimetallic strip,
which changes shape according to the temperature,
due to the different amounts of expansion
and contraction of the two types of metal.
These changes cause a pointer to move in
such a way that the temperature is indicated
on a semicircular scale. Temperature measurements
are made remotely using this type of thermometer,
which means that the bimetallic strip is
outside while the gauge is inside a room.

Fig 5: Simple instruments
for measuring maximum and minimum temperature
and relative humidity |
As well as observing the temperature at various times
of the day, it is interesting to record the highest
(maximum) and lowest (minimum) temperatures. This is
done using a special liquid-in-glass thermometer that
contains a short length of metal acting as a pointer.
At the maximum and minimum temperatures, the liquid
column stops expanding or contracting and changes direction,
leaving the metal pointer indicating the measurement.
The reading is usually made at 0900 GMT, giving the
overnight minimum temperature (which usually occurs
at about dawn) and the maximum temperature for the
previous day (which usually occurs at about 1400 GMT).
After reading, the metal pointers are reset by returning
them to contact with the end of the liquid column.
Figure 6 below shows a typical set up of official
thermometers. The maximum and minimum thermometers
can be seen as the two horizontal thermometers.

Fig 6 (above): Official
thermometers
© Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)
Fig 7 (right): A
simple maximum and minimum thermometer © Crown |
 |
The relative humidity is a measure of the amount
of water vapour actually in the air compared with
the amount of water vapour that the air could hold
(i.e. the amount required to saturate the air).
Meteorologists measure the relative humidity by using
two thermometers - one measures the normal temperature
(the 'dry-bulb' temperature), whereas the other is
a thermometer with its bulb kept wet by a cloth sleeve
dipped in water (this gives the 'wet-bulb' temperature).
It is necessary to keep an eye on the water level in
the 'reservoir' that keeps the cloth sleeve damp, otherwise
it will dry out.
 |
 |
Fig 8: Official thermometers
© Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE) |
Fig 9: A Hygrometer
© Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE) |
Figure 8 above
shows a typical set up of official thermometers.
The dry bulb can be seen as the left-hand vertical
thermometer, whilst the wet-bulb is the right-hand
vertical thermometer.
If the relative humidity of the air is low
there is a lot of evaporation from the wet-bulb.
The resulting cooling causes the wet-bulb
temperature to be much lower than that of
the dry-bulb temperature. However, if the
air is very moist there will be little difference
between the wet- and dry-bulb temperatures.
Consequently the larger the difference between
the wet- and dry-bulb temperatures, the lower
the relative humidity.
Instead of using wet- and dry-bulb thermometers,
simple dial humidity hygrometers can be used.
One relatively cheap type makes use of the
expansion and contraction of a strip of paper
with rises or falls in humidity. The instrument
can be 'calibrated' by leaving it wrapped in
a damp cloth for a while, then setting the
dial to 100%. It is not as accurate as using
the thermometers, but is a lot more convenient.
A simple hygrometer can also be made using
a strand of human hair.
Fig 10 (right): A
simple dry- and wet-bulb thermometer © Crown |
 |
 |
Usually the measurement of rainfall is made at 0900
GMT so the value gives the amount of rain which has
fallen in the previous 24 hours.
The standard rain gauge consists of a copper cylinder
with a knife-edged brass rim of 127 mm (5 inches) diameter,
set to protrude 300 mm above the ground. It is attached
to a flared base that is set permanently into the ground,
inside which is a glass bottle contained within a removable
overflow can. The top, cylindrical part of the rain
gauge contains a funnel that directs the rain into
the glass bottle.
Rainfall is measured by separating the cylinder (with
funnel inside) from the base, removing the overflow
can and taking out the glass bottle. Rainwater from
inside the bottle and, if this has overflowed, inside
the can as well, is then poured into a measuring cylinder.
This cylinder is tapered at the end and graduated so
that small amounts of rainfall can still be measured.
A simple rain gauge can be made using an inverted
cut-in-half soft drinks bottle as a funnel to direct
rain into a bottle inside a bucket. It would be necessary
to adjust the measurements from this, because of the
difference in diameter of the 'funnel' compared with
a standard rain gauge.
It should be pointed out that 1 mm of rainfall recorded
on a site means that if all the rain which fell in
the surrounding area had not drained or evaporated
away, it would have covered the entire surface to a
depth of 1 mm.
 |
 |
Fig 11: A standard
rain gauge
© Crown |
Fig 12: Parts of
a rain gauge
© Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE) |
Once true north has been located, it should be possible
to estimate wind directions from the four cardinal
points of the compass, as well as from their four intermediate
points. This can be done by watching the smoke from
nearby chimneys or a streamer attached to the top of
a pole.
A home-made wind vane could be installed on the site,
but it should be away from obstructions. Light winds
can sometimes be detected by facing the wind and feeling
the breeze on either a cheek or wetted finger. Note
that the direction is recorded as that from which the
wind is blowing.
Table 2: Beaufort
scale showing wind speed in miles per hour
and typical effects over land
| Force |
Description |
Wind
speed |
Typical
effect overland |
| 0 |
Calm |
Less than 1 |
Smoke rises vertically |
| 1-3 |
Light |
1-12 |
Smoke drifts or leaves
rustle |
| 4 |
Moderate |
13-18 |
Small branches move |
| 5 |
Fresh |
19-24 |
Small trees in leaf
begin to sway |
| 6-7 |
Strong |
25-38 |
Large branches or
whole trees in motion |
| 8 |
Gale |
39-46 |
Twigs break off trees |
| 9 |
Severe gale |
47-54 |
Chimney pots and
tiles removed |
| 10-11 |
Storm |
55-72 |
Trees uprooted, widespread
damage |
| 12 |
Hurricane |
More than 73 |
Devastation |
|
The standard instrument for measuring wind
speed is an anemometer (see figure 13).
Ideally, this should be sited in the open at
a height of 10 metres above the ground.
The measurements are usually made remotely
on a dial or LCD device linked to the anemometer.
Hand-held anemometers can be obtained which
provide a direct reading of wind speed when
held up to the wind.
|
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 |
 |
Fig 13: A
mast-mounted anemometer
© J.F.P Galvin |
Fig 14: A
hand-held anemometer
© Crown |
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If an anemometer is not available, wind speeds
can be estimated using the Beaufort wind
scale (see Table 2 above).
A simple cup anemometer can be made by mounting
four ice cream or margarine cartons on a
metal, plastic or wooden cross, which rotates
horizontally about a vertical spindle at
the top of a mast. If one of the cups is
of a different colour from the rest, the
wind speed can be assessed by counting the
number of revolutions per minute. Alternatively,
a counter could be attached, which would
give a measure of the number of revolutions
over a given time - or run-of-wind.
A cheap and reliable alternative is a ventimeter
(figure 15) in which
wind blows into a hole in the side of the instrument
and causes a disc to rise - the height reached
by the disc is a measure of the wind speed.
Fig 15 (right): A
simple ventimeter © Crown |
|
A description of the present weather can be made for
the time of the observation or as a summary of the
past 24 hours. Terms may be used such as sunny, cloudy,
fair, rain, snow and thunderstorms. Abbreviations using
Beaufort Letters may also be useful.
| Present weather desctripion |
| b |
clear sky |
bc |
partly cloudy |
c |
cloudy |
| r |
rain |
d |
drizzle |
s |
snow |
| rs |
sleet |
m |
mist |
f |
fog |
| t |
thunder |
l |
lightning |
g |
gale |
| p |
shower |
h |
hail |
|
|
A combination of the above letters can be used to
describe the weather in more detail, e.g. ph is a hail
shower.
Cloud classification can be very interesting.
There are ten types of cloud which can be divided
into high, medium or low cloud according to
the height of their base.
- High - cirrus, cirrostratus and cirrocumulus
- Medium - altostratus, altocumulus and
nimbostratus
- Low - stratus, stratocumulus, cumulus
and cumulonimbus
|
|
 |
| Fig 16: Clouds © Adele
Beswick |
|
Nimbostratus and cumulonimbus both have a low base
but also extend to high levels in the atmosphere.
Cloud amounts are measured in eighths (called oktas
by meteorologists). However, for many purposes it would
be adequate to record cloud in the following way.
- Clear - no cloud
- Partly cloudy - less than half cloud cover
- Mainly cloudy - more than half cloud cover but
with some breaks in the cloud
- Overcast - complete cloud cover
| A guide
to the shape and height of clouds |
| |
Flat |
Bumpy |
Heaped |
Hairy |
| High |
Cirrostratus |
Cirrocumulus |
|
Cirrus |
| Medium |
Altostratus Nimbostratus |
Altocumulus |
|
|
Low |
Stratus |
Stratocumulus |
Cumulonimbus
Cumulus |
|
Table 3: a guide to
the shape and height of clouds
| Visibility is the furthest distance at which
objects can be seen clearly. There are instruments
for measuring visibility, but these are specialised,
expensive and not generally available. It is
necessary to find a position with a reasonable
all-round view and objects (buildings, trees,
pylons, etc) identified whose distance from the
viewing point is known. The visibility from that
point is the minimum distance that can be seen.
If a large number of objects at a variety of
distances is available, more accurate assessments
of visibility are possible. |
|
 |
| Fig 17: Summer
mist © P.J.B. Nye |
|
In estimating visibility, general terms such as good,
poor, foggy, etc. can be used. The following classification
may be useful.
- Fog - less than 1 km
- Poor - 1 to 5 km
- Moderate - 5 to 10 km
- Good - more than 10 km
Traditionally, atmospheric pressure was measured
using a mercury-in-glass, or Fortin, barometer.
This instrument consisted of a column of mercury
inside a glass tube mounted vertically, with
a vacuum between the top of the mercury column
and the top of the tube. The top of the mercury
column rises or falls proportionately with increases
or decreases in pressure, hence pressure can
be read from a scale against which a pointer
is moved to align with the top of the column.
Nowadays, pressure is measured using a version
of the aneroid barometer. The type of instrument
found in many homes is shown in figure
18. Inside the barometer there are corrugated
capsules which have no air inside. As the pressure
changes, the capsule changes shape and the resulting
very small movement is magnified so that a pointer
shows the pressure on a circular scale. The units
of pressure are either millibars (also called
hectopascals) or inches of mercury.
|
|
 |
Fig 18: Aneroid
barometer
© Crown |
|
 |
 |
| Fig
20: Barograph
© Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE) |
| Fig 19: Mercury in
glass barometer ©
Crown |
Pressure is dependent upon height above
mean sea level (MSL) as well as varying with the weather
situation. In order to be consistent with each other,
barometers are usually set to show the pressure at
MSL. The actual MSL pressure can be obtained by telephoning
the Weathercall service
for your area, or by checking your nearest station
on the hourly
observations page. It is recommended that this
be done on a quiet day with little wind, since pressure
can vary considerably over an area on a windy day.
If the barometer is situated at a very high level,
a correction for MSL may not be possible. Nevertheless,
the pressure at station level can still be measured
as an indication of whether the pressure is rising
or falling is a very useful thing to note.
| The duration of bright sunshine is normally
measured using a Campbell-Stokes sunshine record,
see figure 21. This
comprises of a solid glass sphere mounted on
an adjustable stand, which also holds a card.
The sphere focuses the sunlight on to the card
to burn it. The card is changed every day and
these burn marks are then measured to calculate
the daily amount of sunshine. The sunshine recorder
needs a clear horizon, therefore a rooftop location
often offers the best available exposure. Cambpell-Stokes
manual recorders are now being replaced by automatic
sensors. |
|
 |
Fig 21: A Campbell-Stokes
sunshine recorder © Crown
(Photo by C. G. Roberts MBE) |
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