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Weather observations


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A study of local weather usually requires observations of some of the following: temperature, humidity, rainfall, wind, present weather, cloud, visibility and pressure. The Met Office has very sophisticated equipment and trained staff to make observations, but the student or enthusiast can take perfectly adequate measurements from inexpensive or home-made equipment.

More important than the right equipment and the right site is the right attitude. Observations need to be taken regularly, often for many months, if the results are to be of any use. This requires dedication by those involved as they will be required to take careful, regular readings in all sorts of weather.

Many books and articles on meteorology give excellent advice on setting up an observing station using standard equipment. The purpose of this leaflet is to show how observations can be made at home or school using only very simple and inexpensive equipment.

Siting, observing procedure and recording

Whatever instruments are used, ideally they should be sited over grass and have good exposure (i.e. they should be sited away from buildings, fences, trees and other obstacles). In reality it is usually possible to find a site where the exposure is reasonable even though it may not be ideal.

  • Thermometers should be placed in the shade. Ideally, they should be in a white slatted box (thermometer screen) with the door facing north. If this is not available they could be hung in a permanently shaded area on a wall or fence. Care should be taken, since even a north-facing aspect will get sunshine in summer. There should be a large area of shading around the thermometer because bricks or wood can retain heat, which would spoil the readings if there is little shading.
  • Rain gauges should be away from walls, fences, bushes, etc. as these affect the amount of rain caught in the rain gauge.
  • Wind instruments should be well clear of walls, fences and houses as these cause eddies which would give unrepresentative readings of wind speed and direction.

Official meteorological observations are made every hour. Observations from associated stations are usually made less frequently - every three or every six hours during the daytime only. However, making an observation just once a day, say at 9 a.m. GMT (referred to by meteorologists as 0900 GMT as a 24-hour clock is used), can be a useful exercise in taking measurements and provides useful and interesting information over a period of time.

If 0900 GMT is not possible, another time can be chosen, but it is important that observations are made at the same time each day. Recordings can be entered in a suitably ruled exercise book, or into a tabular computer file. A column for 'remarks' should be included. Plotting daily temperature and pressure readings on a graph can produce interesting results over a period of time. Daily, weekly, monthly and annual totals of rainfall are also of great interest.

Fig 1: a typical real-time observing site © Crown

Fig 1: A typical real-time observing site © Crown

Fig 2: a typical climate observing site © Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)
Fig 2: A typical climate observing site © Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)
Fig 3: A Stevenson screen
Fig 3: A Stevenson screen
© Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)

Temperature

Meteorologists usually measure temperature in degrees Celsius, though degrees Fahrenheit are still used in a few places.

Fig 4: A liquid-in-glass thermometer
Fig 4: A
liquid-in-glass thermometer
© Crown
Table for converting temperatures between Celsius and Fahrenheit
C
F
C
F
C
F
C
F
35
95
25
77
15
59
5
41
34
93
24
75
14
57
4
39
33
91
23
73
13
55
3
37
32
90
22
72
12
54
2
36
31
88
21
70
11
52
1
34
30
86
20
68
10
50
0
32
29
84
19
66
9
48
-1
30
28
82
18
64
8
46
-2
28
27
81
17
63
7
45
-3
27
26
79
16
61
6
43
-4
25
Table 1: Converting temperatures between Celsius and Fahrenheit

There are two basic types of thermometer which are readily available.

  • The liquid-in-glass thermometer (Fig 4, left) depends upon the fact that a liquid expands by an amount proportionate with the temperature. Consequently, as the temperature increases, the liquid (usually alcohol or mercury) in the bulb of the thermometer expands and pushes a column of liquid up a capillary tube. There is a scale marked on the side of the capillary tube and the temperature is read from the position of the end of the liquid column. Temperature measurements are read directly from this type of thermometer.
  • The other type of thermometer (Fig 5) is based on a bimetallic strip, which changes shape according to the temperature, due to the different amounts of expansion and contraction of the two types of metal. These changes cause a pointer to move in such a way that the temperature is indicated on a semicircular scale. Temperature measurements are made remotely using this type of thermometer, which means that the bimetallic strip is outside while the gauge is inside a room.

Fig 5: Simple instruments for measuring maximum and minimum temperature and relative humidity

Fig 5: Simple instruments for measuring maximum and minimum temperature and relative humidity

As well as observing the temperature at various times of the day, it is interesting to record the highest (maximum) and lowest (minimum) temperatures. This is done using a special liquid-in-glass thermometer that contains a short length of metal acting as a pointer. At the maximum and minimum temperatures, the liquid column stops expanding or contracting and changes direction, leaving the metal pointer indicating the measurement.

The reading is usually made at 0900 GMT, giving the overnight minimum temperature (which usually occurs at about dawn) and the maximum temperature for the previous day (which usually occurs at about 1400 GMT). After reading, the metal pointers are reset by returning them to contact with the end of the liquid column. Figure 6 below shows a typical set up of official thermometers. The maximum and minimum thermometers can be seen as the two horizontal thermometers.

Fig 6 (above): Official thermometers © Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)
Fig 6 (above): Official thermometers © Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)

Fig 7 (right): A simple maximum and minimum thermometer © Crown

Fig 7 (right): A simple maximum and minimum thermometer © Crown

Humidity

The relative humidity is a measure of the amount of water vapour actually in the air compared with the amount of water vapour that the air could hold (i.e. the amount required to saturate the air).

Meteorologists measure the relative humidity by using two thermometers - one measures the normal temperature (the 'dry-bulb' temperature), whereas the other is a thermometer with its bulb kept wet by a cloth sleeve dipped in water (this gives the 'wet-bulb' temperature). It is necessary to keep an eye on the water level in the 'reservoir' that keeps the cloth sleeve damp, otherwise it will dry out.

Fig 8: Official thermometers © Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE) Fig 9: A Hygrometer © Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)
Fig 8: Official thermometers
© Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)
Fig 9: A Hygrometer
© Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)

Figure 8 above shows a typical set up of official thermometers. The dry bulb can be seen as the left-hand vertical thermometer, whilst the wet-bulb is the right-hand vertical thermometer.

If the relative humidity of the air is low there is a lot of evaporation from the wet-bulb. The resulting cooling causes the wet-bulb temperature to be much lower than that of the dry-bulb temperature. However, if the air is very moist there will be little difference between the wet- and dry-bulb temperatures. Consequently the larger the difference between the wet- and dry-bulb temperatures, the lower the relative humidity.

Instead of using wet- and dry-bulb thermometers, simple dial humidity hygrometers can be used. One relatively cheap type makes use of the expansion and contraction of a strip of paper with rises or falls in humidity. The instrument can be 'calibrated' by leaving it wrapped in a damp cloth for a while, then setting the dial to 100%. It is not as accurate as using the thermometers, but is a lot more convenient. A simple hygrometer can also be made using a strand of human hair.

Fig 10 (right): A simple dry- and wet-bulb thermometer © Crown

 Fig 10 (right): A simple dry- and wet-bulb thermometer © Crown

Rainfall

Usually the measurement of rainfall is made at 0900 GMT so the value gives the amount of rain which has fallen in the previous 24 hours.

The standard rain gauge consists of a copper cylinder with a knife-edged brass rim of 127 mm (5 inches) diameter, set to protrude 300 mm above the ground. It is attached to a flared base that is set permanently into the ground, inside which is a glass bottle contained within a removable overflow can. The top, cylindrical part of the rain gauge contains a funnel that directs the rain into the glass bottle.

Rainfall is measured by separating the cylinder (with funnel inside) from the base, removing the overflow can and taking out the glass bottle. Rainwater from inside the bottle and, if this has overflowed, inside the can as well, is then poured into a measuring cylinder. This cylinder is tapered at the end and graduated so that small amounts of rainfall can still be measured.

A simple rain gauge can be made using an inverted cut-in-half soft drinks bottle as a funnel to direct rain into a bottle inside a bucket. It would be necessary to adjust the measurements from this, because of the difference in diameter of the 'funnel' compared with a standard rain gauge.

It should be pointed out that 1 mm of rainfall recorded on a site means that if all the rain which fell in the surrounding area had not drained or evaporated away, it would have covered the entire surface to a depth of 1 mm.

Fig 11: A standard rain gauge © Crown Fig 12: Parts of a rain gauge © Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)
Fig 11: A standard rain gauge
© Crown
Fig 12: Parts of a rain gauge
© Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)

Wind

Once true north has been located, it should be possible to estimate wind directions from the four cardinal points of the compass, as well as from their four intermediate points. This can be done by watching the smoke from nearby chimneys or a streamer attached to the top of a pole.

A home-made wind vane could be installed on the site, but it should be away from obstructions. Light winds can sometimes be detected by facing the wind and feeling the breeze on either a cheek or wetted finger. Note that the direction is recorded as that from which the wind is blowing.

Table 2: Beaufort scale showing wind speed in miles per hour and typical effects over land
Force Description Wind speed Typical effect overland
0 Calm Less than 1 Smoke rises vertically
1-3 Light 1-12 Smoke drifts or leaves rustle
4 Moderate 13-18 Small branches move
5 Fresh 19-24 Small trees in leaf begin to sway
6-7 Strong 25-38 Large branches or whole trees in motion
8 Gale 39-46 Twigs break off trees
9 Severe gale 47-54 Chimney pots and tiles removed
10-11 Storm 55-72 Trees uprooted, widespread damage
12 Hurricane More than 73 Devastation

The standard instrument for measuring wind speed is an anemometer (see figure 13). Ideally, this should be sited in the open at a height of 10 metres above the ground.

The measurements are usually made remotely on a dial or LCD device linked to the anemometer.

Hand-held anemometers can be obtained which provide a direct reading of wind speed when held up to the wind.

 

 
 Fig 13: A mast-mounted anemometer © J.F.P Galvin Fig 14: A hand-held anemometer © Crown
Fig 13: A mast-mounted anemometer
© J.F.P Galvin
Fig 14: A hand-held anemometer
© Crown
     

 
If an anemometer is not available, wind speeds can be estimated using the Beaufort wind scale (see Table 2 above).

A simple cup anemometer can be made by mounting four ice cream or margarine cartons on a metal, plastic or wooden cross, which rotates horizontally about a vertical spindle at the top of a mast. If one of the cups is of a different colour from the rest, the wind speed can be assessed by counting the number of revolutions per minute. Alternatively, a counter could be attached, which would give a measure of the number of revolutions over a given time - or run-of-wind.

A cheap and reliable alternative is a ventimeter (figure 15) in which wind blows into a hole in the side of the instrument and causes a disc to rise - the height reached by the disc is a measure of the wind speed.

Fig 15 (right): A simple ventimeter © Crown

 Fig 15: A simple ventimeter © Crown

Present weather

A description of the present weather can be made for the time of the observation or as a summary of the past 24 hours. Terms may be used such as sunny, cloudy, fair, rain, snow and thunderstorms. Abbreviations using Beaufort Letters may also be useful.

Present weather desctripion
b clear sky bc partly cloudy c cloudy
r rain d drizzle s snow
rs sleet m mist f fog
t thunder l lightning g gale
p shower h hail    

A combination of the above letters can be used to describe the weather in more detail, e.g. ph is a hail shower.

Cloud

Cloud classification can be very interesting. There are ten types of cloud which can be divided into high, medium or low cloud according to the height of their base.

  • High - cirrus, cirrostratus and cirrocumulus
  • Medium - altostratus, altocumulus and nimbostratus
  • Low - stratus, stratocumulus, cumulus and cumulonimbus
 
Fig 16: Clouds © Adele Beswick
Fig 16: Clouds © Adele Beswick

Nimbostratus and cumulonimbus both have a low base but also extend to high levels in the atmosphere.

Cloud amounts are measured in eighths (called oktas by meteorologists). However, for many purposes it would be adequate to record cloud in the following way.

  • Clear - no cloud
  • Partly cloudy - less than half cloud cover
  • Mainly cloudy - more than half cloud cover but with some breaks in the cloud
  • Overcast - complete cloud cover
A guide to the shape and height of clouds
 
Flat
Bumpy
Heaped
Hairy
High
Cirrostratus
Cirrocumulus
Cirrus
Medium
Altostratus Nimbostratus
Altocumulus
Low
Stratus
Stratocumulus
Cumulonimbus Cumulus

Table 3: a guide to the shape and height of clouds

Visibility

Visibility is the furthest distance at which objects can be seen clearly. There are instruments for measuring visibility, but these are specialised, expensive and not generally available. It is necessary to find a position with a reasonable all-round view and objects (buildings, trees, pylons, etc) identified whose distance from the viewing point is known. The visibility from that point is the minimum distance that can be seen. If a large number of objects at a variety of distances is available, more accurate assessments of visibility are possible.  
Fig 17: Summer mist © P.J.B. Nye
Fig 17: Summer mist © P.J.B. Nye

In estimating visibility, general terms such as good, poor, foggy, etc. can be used. The following classification may be useful.

  • Fog - less than 1 km
  • Poor - 1 to 5 km
  • Moderate - 5 to 10 km
  • Good - more than 10 km
Pressure

Traditionally, atmospheric pressure was measured using a mercury-in-glass, or Fortin, barometer. This instrument consisted of a column of mercury inside a glass tube mounted vertically, with a vacuum between the top of the mercury column and the top of the tube. The top of the mercury column rises or falls proportionately with increases or decreases in pressure, hence pressure can be read from a scale against which a pointer is moved to align with the top of the column. Nowadays, pressure is measured using a version of the aneroid barometer. The type of instrument found in many homes is shown in figure 18. Inside the barometer there are corrugated capsules which have no air inside. As the pressure changes, the capsule changes shape and the resulting very small movement is magnified so that a pointer shows the pressure on a circular scale. The units of pressure are either millibars (also called hectopascals) or inches of mercury.
 
 
Fig 18: Aneroid barometer
Fig 18: Aneroid barometer
© Crown
Fig 19: Mercury in Glass barometer © Crown Fig 20: Barograph © Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)
Fig 20: Barograph © Crown (Photo by C.G. Roberts MBE)
Fig 19: Mercury in glass barometer © Crown

Pressure is dependent upon height above mean sea level (MSL) as well as varying with the weather situation. In order to be consistent with each other, barometers are usually set to show the pressure at MSL. The actual MSL pressure can be obtained by telephoning the Weathercall service for your area, or by checking your nearest station on the hourly observations page. It is recommended that this be done on a quiet day with little wind, since pressure can vary considerably over an area on a windy day. If the barometer is situated at a very high level, a correction for MSL may not be possible. Nevertheless, the pressure at station level can still be measured as an indication of whether the pressure is rising or falling is a very useful thing to note.

Sunshine

The duration of bright sunshine is normally measured using a Campbell-Stokes sunshine record, see figure 21. This comprises of a solid glass sphere mounted on an adjustable stand, which also holds a card. The sphere focuses the sunlight on to the card to burn it. The card is changed every day and these burn marks are then measured to calculate the daily amount of sunshine. The sunshine recorder needs a clear horizon, therefore a rooftop location often offers the best available exposure. Cambpell-Stokes manual recorders are now being replaced by automatic sensors.  
Fig 21: A Campbell-Stokes sunshine recorder © Crown
Fig 21: A Campbell-Stokes sunshine recorder © Crown
(Photo by C. G. Roberts MBE)
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